ON MONDAY 18TH MARCH, Chef Naved enjoyed a well-deserved break from the kitchen. For this one very unusual evening, his chef’s whites remained pristine and pressed in his locker. Instead of steeling himself for a hectic dinner shift, he felt pleasantly calm and relaxed. An almost holiday-ish feeling overtook him. With a contented smile, he wandered into Dishoom Manchester’s grand Dining Hall, settled into a delightfully rickety bentwood chair, admired his surroundings and waited.
The Dining Hall soon filled with the North’s finest chefs and restaurateurs, all eagerly awaiting Action Against Hunger’s much-anticipated annual charity event, Too Many Critics.
Ruth Allen (Manchester Wire) and Matt White (XS Manchester) heroically kicked off proceedings with Mancunian cheese toast and crispy paneer served with Kairi chutney.
For mains, Emily Heward (Manchester Evening News) and Louise Rhind-Tutt (ILoveManchester) took to the grill and served up tandoori prawns and saffron lamb chops, whilst Neil Sowerby (Taste of Manchester) and Simon Binns (LadBible) took care of the curry dishes with Keralan fish moilee and a roasted cauliflower and aubergine korma. And to end things on a sweet note, Bill Knott (The Financial Times) served a cardamom pannacotta.
The critics were also asked to curate a special beer cocktail for the night, partnering with a local brewery. This included a Mango Shandy using Northern Monk, a Spiced Vanilla Black using North Brewing Co, a Cosmic Butter Brew with JW Lees, a Mang-chester Sour using Shindigger’s Mango Unchained, Bhangra Beatnikz using Beatniks, and a Manchester Union Manhattan using Manchester Union Lager.
Winners were announced at the end of the evening following votes from diners and chefs, with Neil proudly taking the prize for Chef’s choice as well as cocktail creation, and Ruth picking up the people’s choice. Thanks to all patrons who supported this worthy cause! And shabash to all critic-chefs, for your hard work – and thank you, kindly, for giving Naved a night off!
For those wanting to taste at home, cocktail creation winner Neil Sowerby has kindly shared the recipe for his Bhangra Beatnikz.
15ml lime juice
10ml ginger syrup
15ml Kamm & Sons
25ml Plantation Pineapple
2 dash peach bitters
Beatniks IPA beer foam
1. Add the above ingredients (minus the beer foam) into a shaker
2. Shake, hard
3. Top with whipped beer foam
4. Sip with relish
The phone keeps ringing shrilly through the flat. Nauzer holds his head in his hands, palms clamped over his ears. “Beta, the phone!” He forgot his mother would still be here. He can’t have her answering in case it is Devia. He runs into the corridor to pick it up. It stops just before he can reach it. Breathless, he looks up and sees his mother in the kitchen.
Tucked away in a lovely corner of Wood Wharf, Dishoom Canary Wharf is now officially open and ready to welcome you all. The marble-top bar is ready to hold your drink, the textured, patterned (and extremely comforting) chairs are waiting to be kept warm and the hand-painted mural and carefully curated art – from Bombay and beyond – are waiting to be part of your conversations.
This chicken biryani is our homage to Britannia’s chicken berry pulao, using cranberries in place of the more authentic Persian barberries, which are tricky to find. (Despite much cajoling, Mr Kohinoor has never shared his wife’s famous recipe.) It is prepared in the kacchi style, originating from Hyderabad, in which marinated raw meat goes into the pot, to be cooked at the same time as the rice.
No party is complete without some delectable pours to toast the host with the most. For the crafty amongst us, bring out the shakers and strainers and the channel knife and pour your energy into building our festive concoction – The Taj Ballroom Toddy. A warming tipple inspired by The Taj Mahal Palace hotel, where Bombay’s jazz age was born.