2012 strikes us as a year of contradictions. Yes, it was another year of economic turmoil, of grim declarations from a glum Chancellor about “austerity measures” and “belt-tightening”. And yet we noticed some rebellion, in London at least. A defiantly jubilant response to the bad news, a determination to revel in all that there was to celebrate – and thankfully, we created much to celebrate.
The Olympics and Paralympics, felt like the most spectacular spectacles ever to take place in London. A feast of golds, silvers and bronzes. Ennis, Wiggo, Murray, Simmonds, Farah, Pendleton, Weir, Peacock, and all the rest of the awesome-wallas, we salute you. (And who can forget Mr. Boyle’s brilliant, barmy opening ceremony? We loved Daniel and Lizzie Bonding from the sky, Kenny B in his Brunel hat, Rowan being a (very British) horse’s arse. No greater proof that Britishers are madder than a box of frogs – and all the more endearing for it.)
The cold and rainy Jubilee tested our mettle and our stiff upper lips, but in the end, we still managed to do London proud. The juggernaut that was the American election rumbled across the States, and we breathed a sigh of relief when Barry O proudly declared “four more years” and saved the world from permanent tea-stain damage. Felix Baumgartner made a daredevil dive from the edge of space and lived to tell the tale. A little closer to the earth’s surface, Boris got dangled – and instantly became an internet sensation. The lovely Kate made a nation of grandmothers teary-eyed by getting up the duff. God finally showed us his massive little particle in the Large Hadron Collider, but most people were too tied up with Fifty Shades of Christian Grey or prancing Gangnam Stylee to pay attention to particle physics.
Back in India, we detected a darker mood. Bombay said farewell to Bal Thackeray before putting girls into prison for a Facebook post, the cartoonist exercising mob power from his pyre. Dhoble caused havoc on the Bombay party scene with his hockey stick. Shankarji and Chopraji were mourned. We grudgingly accepted a series defeat to England on home turf – and vowed to turn the tables. Do women really want to be 18 again, when the legal drinking age is 25? Some Bombayites squealed with delight while others heaved sighs of despair when Starbucks opened on historic Horniman Circle, as the nearby old Irani Cafés continued to fade into memory.
London’s restaurant world remained bubble-buoyant; openings continued apace. There truly has never been a better time to be hungry in London. Gourmet dude food, burgers and chicken were on our minds (and plates, and down the front of our shirts) in 2012. We nursed pisco hangovers from Ceviche, and took in the views from Duck & Waffle and drank picklebacks at Pitt Cue. We admired the skilful simplicity of Ollie Dabbous and 10 Greek Street, and celebrated our friends from Flat Iron finding a home in Soho.
Here at Dishoom, we began the year as we often do, with a return visit to Bombay. This (slightly indulgent) trip down memory lane turned into the trigger that inspired us to write another, even more earnest and heartfelt love-letter to that old city, and its beloved old cafés. The seeds of an idea planted in Bombay were nurtured in London, and thus, by the end of 2012, an eccentric old Irani Café had arrived in Shoreditch. (Take a look at how it turned out.)
It was a year packed with excitement for us. When we weren’t covering ourselves in gulal to celebrate Holi, serving up paan and mehendi at Eid and creating collaborative rangolis for Diwali, we were injecting new life into our menu, inventing barmy new drinks, and coming third in chilli cookoffs. But now, as much and even more than ever, we just wanted to do our very best to make our dear Dishoom-wallahs happy. We didn’t always get it right, of course. But we read every single word of your feedback – the good, the bad and the ugly. And we rejoiced in your kind words, accepted our mistakes, and vowed to do the needful.
We are grateful to everyone who came to see the new Café in Shoreditch (and those who stayed faithful to its older cousin in Covent Garden); anyone who got in touch just to say hello, or bantered with us on Twitter or Facebook. Those who held a barmy Christmas party with us, came to celebrate a birthday or a special occasion, graced us with their presence at one of our events, or just stopped by for a Chai on a rainy Tuesday afternoon. It’s been our pleasure to get to know you, and we sincerely hope we’ll know you for a long time yet.
Of course, our team grew in size this year. We now have twice as many solid-gold Dishoom-wallas in our big, barmy family. Running a busy restaurant while opening a new one is, it’s fair to say, bloody hard work, and every single one of these absolute super-wallas has given us far more than we could ever have asked for. To each of you: we are honoured to have you on the team. You are all officially, totally and utterly amazing. We couldn’t do it without you – and indeed, we wouldn’t want to.
So – as 2012 draws to a close, we may all have a few extra silver hairs, just a touch of tiredness around the eyes. But we end the year feeling elated and buoyed up by all the new friends we’ve made, many of whom have grown to be like family to us, and shyly, quietly, just a little proud of our two beautiful Bombay Cafés in London. And most of all, we’re excited for what new adventures 2013 will bring.
As ever, we think of Ganesh at the end of one year and the beginning of the next. And as ever, may he make your beginnings great and your obstacles a little smaller.
Take care, and have a very happy new year.
We began working with Magic Breakfast in 2015, supporting them in their goal of ending hunger as a barrier to education in the UK. Over the years, we’ve developed lasting and loyal friendships with the incredible team and their partner schools. This month, we celebrate reaching the milestone of donating 10 million meals to hungry children in partnership with Magic Breakfast and Akshaya Patra. Magic Breakfast’s Head of Schools, Rachael Anderson, has kindly taken the time to reflect on the last six years of our work together, as well as sharing her thoughts on the profound impact the past twelve months have had.
Since 2015, for every Dishoom meal you’ve enjoyed (whether in the cafés, via delivery, or as a meal kit), we’ve donated a meal to a child that might otherwise go hungry. A meal for a meal. This month, as we reached the milestone of donating 10 million meals, we had occasion to catch up with our dear friends and long-term charity partners, Magic Breakfast and Akshaya Patra. The work both charities do to end hunger as a barrier to education is simply incredible and we’re extremely proud to be able to support them and the communities they serve in the UK and India, respectively. We kindly invite you to take a moment to hear their reflections on our partnership and on the impact of the very important work they do.
Uttapam are a fluffy savoury dosa, made with rice. They're usually enjoyed with savoury toppings but we particularly like ours with lashings of jaggery syrup and a thick, strained yoghurt. Chef Naved has shared his recipe for making an extra fluffy stack at home.
Our Old-Fashioned bottled cocktail takes its name from the Permit Room bar, found in every Dishoom and so named after the official term for all Bombay drinking establishments, in which, according to the Bombay Prohibition Act of 1949, only permit-holders may consume alcohol. Herein, liquor can be sold and imbibed, but only for the goodness of one’s health.
Though the doors of the Permit Room are closed for now, you can still enjoy our tipples in bottled form at home. Follow our lead to achieve the perfect pour, and transport yourself back to a cosy corner of the bar.