interview

In conversation with mango-walla Santosh Gupta

Mangoes do not grace hands by chance – it is the mango-walla who bestows their splendour. Bombayite, Santosh, shares his journey from software engineer to purveyor of summer’s most precious fruit, along with time-sharpened techniques for selecting the very best.

Mango season arrives with an abundance of perfumed sweetness, spoonable golden flesh and the promise of joyful gifting. A fruit of this stature deserves a worthy custodian: the mango-walla, possessing encyclopedic knowledge of patrons' tastes. They know who prefers the fruit a little firmer, who waits for lassi-worthy softness; who gifts by the dozen, and who slips away with a single tenderly-chosen Alphonso.

Bombayite Santosh Gupta is one such mango-walla. His shop Gupta’s Fruit Mart, offers a resplendent A–Z of freshest fruits and vegetables. Yet, it’s the mango, of course, that tempts and thrills most triumphantly. Here, Santosh shares how he ventured into the business of mangoes, how much a prized Alphonso will fetch and judicious tips for scavenging ripest treasure.

Mango-walla, Santosh Gupta

How did you get into the business of mangoes?

It’s quite a long story. When the pandemic struck, my older brother convinced me to leave my job as a software engineer and join the family business, setting up my own fruit shop. And so, on 1st March 2021, I acquired Gupta’s Fruit Mart in Bandra’s Pali Market.


When do you sell mangoes?

365 days of the year! We provide Indian and exotic varieties, based on the season. Once the Indian mango season ends, we turn to imported mangoes – for example, from Australia and Brazil. This means mango is on the menu for us every day of the year.

What’s your favourite type of mango?

Of course, the Alphonso – it’s the king for a reason! Alphonsos from Ratnagiri and Devgad are the best by far. They have a lovely, sweet flavour, and the skin is so thick you can actually eat it along with the flesh. They’re also very juicy. My patrons agree, the Alphonso mango (specifically from Ratnagiri) is a firm favourite.

What are your top Alphonso mango purchasing tips?

For Alphonsos, look for thin skins, and the top of the mango should be red or yellow, not green. The shape should resemble a curved paisley; that’s when you know it’s an original Alphonso. If the shape is more circular or oval, don’t buy it.

Which mango varieties do you offer?

All types really, we work directly with Maharashtrian farmers and then source other varieties from suppliers outside the state. Always organic Alphonso, Badami, Banganapalli, Kesar (which is one of the best after Alphonso, and comes from Gujarat), Langda and Chausa (which are both from Uttar Pradesh), Dasheri, Rajapuri, Safeda, Lalbaug and more. Alphonso season usually runs until June–July, and as soon as it ends, the Langda and Chausa mangoes come into play.

And how much does the Alphonso sell for?

The amount fluctuates each season. Prices start at ₹800 (≈£6) per dozen and can go up to ₹2,500 (≈£19) for the same quantity. There are a few crucial things that affect the price. Rain in mango-growing regions is a disaster for farmers and sellers; the fruit must stay dry, or it gets damaged, leading to losses. And this year, the war has stalled mango exports from India – around 50–60% of potential exports haven’t left the country. Alphonso mangoes, which rarely drop to ₹800, may fall to that price.

Biggest mango splurge you’ve seen from a single buyer?

500–600 boxes! (This is from corporate clients gifting boxes to their employees.)


Pattern

Mangoes For All

Gold has arrived in Bombay. Come relish the brief but glorious season in café with all-new limited-mango merch and our Alphonso Mango special – so treasured, it won’t linger (available from 12pm every day until 7th June).

In conversation with mango-walla Santosh Gupta | Dishoom Journal