What’s in my Dabba? with Sana Siddiqui

No Bombay kitchen is complete without its Masala Dabba, a stainless-steel box, worn and battered, passed down through the generations. Each is as unique as its owner, full of most-favoured spices and many-varied stories within. In our ‘What’s In My Dabba?’ series, we get a glimpse into some of our friends’ kitchens, as they share the judicious spicing of their favourite dishes, along with hosting rituals, tips and stories. Delight awaits.

In this chapter, we join Sana Siddiqui of Curating the Table, a husband-and-wife team sharing their love of Indian food and the everyday poetry of cooking and eating. Here, Sana reveals the family history of her dabba, reflects on the personal touches that make guests feel welcome and warm and shares a cherished family recipe.

➻ What’s in your Masala Dabba?

The five spices I cannot cook without: Kashmiri chilli powder, ground turmeric, ground coriander, cumin seeds and panch-phoran. They are the foundation of my cooking. If I were deserted on an island with just my dabba, I believe I could still cook up a feast! The dabba itself is a family heirloom. It’s a paandaan – a paan box that was gifted to my mother by my grandmother as part of the tradition of gifting newlyweds copper, brass and silver household objects. I have repurposed it as a spice box, so it can continue its journey with me. It feels like carrying family history into the kitchen, just told through a different story.

➻ What are some of your earliest memories of cooking?

Family gatherings where uncles, aunties and cousins would all come together to cook. Everyone had a role, and the kitchen felt festive and alive. My first real task was kneading atta dough, something I was apparently very good at. I would sit on the floor and work the dough with my hands. I don’t know why it came so naturally, but perhaps that is why I still feel such a deep connection to the smell of freshly kneaded atta.

➻ What’s on the menu for us today, and why have you chosen this dish?

Today I am making a family Egg and Potato Curry. It is a dish my mum would cook when there was nothing else planned or available at home – I wanted to celebrate that sentiment! What was considered a simple, last-minute meal was actually quite a grand dish in its own way. It makes me reflect on the food culture I come from. Even when we cook simply, we do it with care and ritual.

➻ What are your top tips for cooking with spices? How or where did you learn this?

With spices, less is always more. The goal is balance and harmony, not one spice overpowering the rest. Just as important is learning how to cook spices properly, giving them enough time and respect. I learnt this by absorbing and observing as a child. I was constantly surrounded by family, and cooking for a crowd was central to everyday life.

➻ How are you welcoming guests to the table?

I welcome guests through small personal gestures. A handwritten menu, a dish chosen with a specific person in mind, and so on. These small but important details tell my guests that they’ve been thought of long before they arrive.

➻ Can you tell us of a ritual that you swear by when hosting friends and family?

My ritual has always been to cook as much as possible in advance. I want to be in the room with my guests, not in the kitchen worrying about timings. I like meals to unfold naturally, with plenty of space for conversation, refills and second helpings.