What’s in my Dabba? with Sumayya Usmani

No Bombay kitchen is complete without its Masala Dabba, a stainless-steel box, worn and battered, passed down through the generations. Each is as unique as its owner, full of most-favoured spices and many-varied stories within. In our ‘What’s In My Dabba?’ series, we get a glimpse into some of our friends’ kitchens, as they share the judicious spicing of their favourite dishes, along with hosting rituals, tips and stories. Delight awaits.

In this chapter, we’re sitting down with food writer Sumayya Usmani as she takes us back to her childhood and relives the magic of Northern Pakistani hospitality. Plus, a delectable Peshawari Chicken Karahi recipe.

➻ What’s in your Masala Dabba?

Cumin, green cardamon – black cardamom, too – cinnamon, saffron, fresh curry leaves, turmeric, dried red chilli, cloves and black peppercorns.

➻ Which spices are you reaching for most often while cooking, and why?

Cumin, red chilli flakes and cinnamon. With these three spices, I can create the food I love most: Pakistani, Indian and Mexican. I find that cumin is a spice that can support a whole dish on its own when used the right way.

➻ What are some of your earliest memories of cooking?

I grew up travelling on a merchant ship, as my father was a captain for the first 10 years of my life. My mother’s way of making such an inhospitable place more homey was by cooking for me on her small electric cooker – which was really just an electric frying pan! My first memory of cooking was the two of us making fudge onboard one of the vessels.

➻ What’s on the menu for us today, and why have you chosen this dish?

Today, we’re making Peshawari Chicken Karahi. I grew up eating very aromatic rather than very hot food. My mother’s family was from the Indian side of Punjab and migrated to Pakistan in 1947, while my father’s side were from Lucknow. As a result, the cooking in our home was always a mix of heady spices – slow-cooked meals with lots of layers of flavour. Then, in my teens, I discovered the Northern Pakistani way of cooking, using minimal spice but lots of black pepper and fresh ingredients. I was hooked. It’s such a different way of cooking. The recipe I’m sharing today is a really accessible dish, something you can make anywhere in the world… as long as you have good tomatoes!

➻ What are your top tips for cooking with spices? How or where did you learn this?

I learnt both these tips from my mother. The first is for cumin and works best in recipes where you only need a little. Dry-roast the seeds, then use your hands to crush them. I find this adds an intense cumin flavour without losing too many of the spice’s oils, which can happen if you use a pestle and mortar.

The second is to buy big bags of whole spices from Asian supermarkets instead of pre-ground pots. Decant them into smaller tubs for everyday use and freeze the rest whole. This extends their shelf life a little and keeps the flavour intact for longer.

➻ How are you welcoming guests to the table?

The culture of hospitality runs deep in the Indian sub-contiment. It includes an abundance of dishes, using the best ingredients, catering for all dietary requirements and ensuring that you prepare days, if not weeks, in advance. I think I carry this responsibility with me, no matter where I go.

Growing up in Pakistan, welcoming guests was such a big part of everyday life. If we knew someone was coming over that night, we would really go all out. It’s never about just one dish – it’s about making a few, whatever you can afford, and ensuring your guest goes home rolling!

➻ Can you tell us of a ritual that you swear by when hosting friends and family?

I have two. First, I always set the table with my best crockery: special dishes, tablecloths and serving pieces that only come out when I’m hosting. I also light candles and incense, dim the lights and choose the right music. I’m a sensory person, so I like to set the mood before guests arrive.

And the second is preparing extra food, just in case. I always make more than needed, carrying on that idea of abundance.