What’s in my Dabba? with Rajen Patel

No Bombay kitchen is complete without its Masala Dabba, a stainless-steel box, worn and battered, passed down through the generations. Each is as unique as its owner, full of most-favoured spices and many-varied stories within. In our ‘What’s In My Dabba?’ series, we get a glimpse into some of our friends’ kitchens, as they share the judicious spicing of their favourite dishes, along with hosting rituals, tips and stories. Delight awaits.

In this chapter, we join Rajen Patel, founder of The Homie’s Kitchen – a fire-led Indian and Latin food venture. Rajen offers considered tips for barbecuing with spice, a glimpse into his time-worn dabba and best wisdom for unfussy hosting. He also recalls joyous family barbecues, his dada (grandfather) at the centre, expertly grilling all manner of delicious fare. A recipe for three particular favourites, sheekh kabab, garlic chilli mogo and bhutta (corn-on-the-cob), is generously shared, too.

➻ What’s in your Masala Dabba?

The essentials. Without fail, there will always be jeera (cumin) seeds, black mustard seeds, turmeric, dhana jeera, Kashmiri chilli powder and the one that sits in the centre: home-made garam masala. And there’s a leftover pot. A free agent to add whatever extra spice I’m obsessing over (right now: black cardamom).

I inherited my dabba from my grandad, and his name is etched in the metal. It’s almost an exact replica of my mum’s and grandma’s dabbas. Influencers in their own right!

➻ Which spices are you reaching for most often while cooking, and why?

It has to be my garam masala – a secret recipe that’s made by one of my baa’s (grandma’s) best friends. They lived opposite each other in Leicester long before I was born. She buys, dries, toasts, grinds and blends all the spices herself, creating the most aromatic, deeply spiced, flavourful garam masala I’ve ever come across. It elevates any dish, both at home and at the restaurant. As far as I’m aware, I’m the only person in London with access to this blend – a pretty beautiful and unique thing to be blessed with.

➻ What are some of your earliest memories of cooking?

Within my baa & dada’s house (which I grew up in). There were so many family occasions around the table, eating incredible spreads put together by my baa, kakis (aunties) and mum. But my earliest memories of fire cooking are summer barbecues in the garden. I would always help wrap mogo in foil and throw them through an opening in our makeshift cinderblock barbecue, straight onto the glowing coals (as if it were a game!).

➻ What’s on the menu for us today, and why have you chosen this dish?

We’re paying homage to my dada and his legendary barbecues with three essentials: lamb sheekh kabab, mogo, and chilli bhutta. He would always have a glass of red wine with his kabab (a very classy man). On those days, everyone would be together. Spiced smoke in the air. Kids running around laughing. Food reaching plates at the perfect time.

Subconsciously, I think those memories have shaped who I am today: the joy I get from bringing people together over a barbecue and running fire-led residencies with The Homie’s Kitchen around London. It was always my dada’s hope to own his own restaurant. So, in a way, I’m carrying out that dream for him – I hope he’s proud.

➻ What are your top tips for cooking with spices? How or where did you learn this?

When cooking directly over fire, don’t simply sprinkle spices over the meat just before grilling. They’ll burn – which will probably incite a riot among your guests. You want to treat them the same way you would when cooking a curry. Give them care and attention. Let them bloom in warm oil or ghee before basting. Toast and grind your own whole spices before mixing with yoghurt for marinades. Sprinkle some garam masala just before you plate. You’ll notice a world of difference in aroma and flavour.

➻ How are you welcoming guests to the table?

Honestly, if you're coming over to the house, you’re not really a guest. You're more like family. My wife and I have grown up in houses that are open homes. Everyone has always been welcome (unless you’re a Spurs fan!) We want people to feel like they can walk in at any time, grab a drink from the fridge, a snack from the cupboard and join us in whatever we’re doing.

When it’s time to eat, the food comes out family-style. I’ll sit back whilst everyone piles up their plates and digs in. I’ll always eat last because I love to see the joy and excitement on everyone’s faces as they pass dishes to each other and top up their drinks. It’s a feeling like no other.

➻ Can you tell us of a ritual that you swear by when hosting friends and family?

It’s not really a ritual, maybe more a piece of advice: just take your time. Don’t rush, don’t overthink. Be present with your friends and family and enjoy the day. Don’t get too obsessed or stressed by the stove or grill. Life is already fast enough. If something goes terribly wrong, it’s a good story to laugh at the next time everyone is round.