What’s in my Dabba? with Chef Salim

No Bombay kitchen is complete without its Masala Dabba, a stainless-steel box, worn and battered, passed down through the generations. Each is as unique as its owner, full of most-favoured spices and many-varied stories within. In our ‘What’s In My Dabba?’ series, we get a glimpse into some of our friends’ kitchens, as they share the judicious spicing of their favourite dishes, along with hosting rituals, tips and stories. Delight awaits.

In this chapter, Dishoom Chef Salim Khan unlids his essential three spices, tells us of the enduring role of chai in his life and shares a recipe for two comforting and warming autumnal staples.

"If you have chai, your whole day goes nice and good."

➻ What’s in your Masala Dabba?

Ah, cardamom for my chai – that's essential. Growing up in Agra, my father was the one who loved to cook. He would always reach for black pepper, garam masala, cloves, and black cardamom. To this day, these are the spices I keep closest. Always fresh ginger, green chilli, fresh coriander too. Whatever my mother cooked, Papa would add his own extra spices, make his own tarka. My wife is English, so I suppose I'm following that tradition of adding my own touch!

➻ Which spice are you reaching for most often while cooking?

I’m a north Indian boy, so cumin, coriander, chilli powder and turmeric.

➻ What are some of your earliest memories of cooking?

My dad and I, always sharing chai together. He could drink it any time – wake him at 4am and he’d happily sip chai. My mum and papa used to gossip over their cups while we children were meant to be sleeping, but sometimes we’d listen in secretly.

I was also a railway chai-walla in India – feels like another lifetime now, but that was my first proper job. These days, my wife makes chai every morning and my daughters enjoy sharing it with me. It’s a beautiful continuation of tradition, except that she drinks Earl Grey!

➻ What’s on the menu for us today, and why have you chosen this dish?

Today, chai and pakoras! As we welcome autumn and the rains begin, this is what we always make – chai, pakoras, and green chutney, naturally. Perfect for the season. Find the recipe for them here.

➻ Can you give us your top tips for cooking with spices?

Three ingredients can save any dish: turmeric powder, chilli powder, and salt. If you have nothing else, you can still create something beautiful with just these. My mother – she could make magic from almost nothing if she had those three spices in her dabba.

➻ How are you welcoming guests to the table?

We always make our guests know that there’ll be lots of food available at our house. Also, we tell them they will be taking at least three tiffins of leftovers home.

➻ Can you tell us of a ritual that you swear by before hosting friends and family?

We make the table beautiful – candles, fresh flowers, some incense burning. Creating that warmth before the feast begins.

➻ As a chef who’s been with us since the very early days, how are you celebrating 15 years of Dishoom?

Dishoom has completely changed my life. I’ve learnt so much from so many people and for me, the celebration is all about spending time with my colleagues all over the country. It feels like a proper family here and I love to laugh and make jokes with the team!