What’s in my Dabba? with Rez Rahman

No Bombay kitchen is complete without its Masala Dabba, a stainless-steel box, worn and battered, passed down through the generations. Each is as unique as its owner, full of most-favoured spices and many-varied stories within. In our ‘What’s In My Dabba?’ series, we get a glimpse into some of our friends’ kitchens, as they share the judicious spicing of their favourite dishes, along with hosting rituals, tips and stories. Delight awaits.

In this chapter, we sit down with Rez Rahman, chef and founder of jet-setting supper club and pop-up Roti Mama. She shares treasured early memories of cooking, playlists for all manner of gatherings, as well as the beloved spices (and scents) that accompany her when travelling. Plus, a comforting recipe for chilli cheese parathas, loved deeply by friends and family alike.

➻ What’s in your Masala Dabba?

Mine is not really a traditional masala dabba. It’s more like a little travelling dabba that I take around with me. Inside, I’ve got Maldon sea salt, dried limes, crispy onions, mustard seeds, dried coriander, achar masala and whole garam masala.

They’re basically all the little things I reach for constantly, especially when I’m finishing dishes. Because I cook in so many different kitchens with Roti Mami, I really like having this one little thing that travels with me everywhere.

➻ Which spices are you reaching for most often while cooking, and why?

Definitely mustard seeds and achar masala. Mustard seeds are such a familiar flavour in Bengali cooking, and I love what happens when you gently temper them in oil – you get a lovely nuttiness and bitterness.

And I use achar masala all the time. I love anything sour, salty, spicy and slightly punchy, so that flavour profile finds its way into loads of my food. I also enjoy using spices quite freely. They don’t always have to appear in the places you’d traditionally expect them to.

➻ What are some of your earliest memories of cooking?

One of my earliest memories is cooking with my grandma in East London. She would always give me little jobs to do. We’d go into the garden and pick things – I’d help her in the kitchen, and she would cook huge amounts of food. Afterwards, we’d put everything into containers and take it round to neighbours’ houses.

I remember absolutely loving it because I felt like I had a really important job to do. Looking back, I think that’s probably where my love of feeding people comes from. There was never the idea of cooking just enough for yourself. You cooked loads, you shared it, you gave it away.

➻ What’s on the menu for us today, and why have you chosen this dish?

Today I’m making my chilli cheese parathas! They’re such a crowd-pleaser. All my friends and my brother love them. They’re indulgent, cheesy, spicy and delicious – plus, super easy to make.

I also think they feel very London and South Asian at the same time, which is quite representative of the way I cook. They’re filled with cheese and served with a really fresh green chutney made with mint, coriander, lime, garlic and green chillies. It cuts through all the richness of the cheese and makes the whole thing really addictive.

➻ What are your top tips for cooking with spices? How or where did you learn this?

My top tip is not to fear using spices – but also not to feel like you have to throw everything into one dish. Sometimes, just a few spices used properly will give you much more flavour.

If you’re toasting spices, make sure to do it gently. You want to release all of those oils and aromas without burning them. Once spices burn, they can become really bitter. It’s also important to use your senses – I grew up watching people cook in that way. Smell what’s happening in the pan, taste constantly and don’t be completely tied to measurements.

➻ How are you welcoming guests to the table?

I always want people to feel super relaxed. That’s a huge part of what Roti Mami is about. Even if some of the dishes are styled a little differently or presented in a slightly smarter way, I never want the food or experience to feel intimidating. I want everything to feel really generous.

There’s also always music on. I have about a zillion Roti Mami playlists – music plays such a big part in the atmosphere.

➻ Can you tell us of a ritual that you swear by when hosting friends and family?

I’m quite obsessive about how a space feels when someone walks into it. There’s music playing, candles or incense burning and all the food smells coming from the kitchen. I love the layering of different senses.

There’s actually this matcha-scented Japanese incense that I adore. It sounds slightly basic, but it honestly smells like home to me. I love it so much that I travel with it too, along with my masala dabba!